So I see gorgeous sunsets pretty much daily, the rainy season yielding more dramatic colors with clouds.
Along with approaching storms:
Showing posts with label protests. Show all posts
Showing posts with label protests. Show all posts
07 June 2010
Envy my view
I have no bones about making you jealous. Of many of my social circle, I can- and do- brag having the best view from my apartment.
Along with approaching storms:
Or really bad smog.
And most recently, where the fires are.
Along with approaching storms:
06 June 2010
Recap: living through the protests
Greetings. I realise I've been quiet as of late. I decided not to blog about the protests but as they got serious it got rather hard to be flippant about the events going on around me. Friends were evacuated out of the hot zone, checkpoints and army officers started showing up in my end of town, the Skytrain stopped running, and smoke coming out of the horizon started to be a regular occurrence. I wanted to talk about that but it would be nearly impossible to blog about it without giving those of you outside Bangkok an alarmist perception.
My biggest problem was cabin fever. The Skytrain stopped operating as the protests started getting violent. Violent as in spurts of gunfire here and there, mostly as the military and police really tightened their surrounding of the protest area. The shooting, probably assassination really, of Seh Daeng, a renegade active duty army general turned protester was what set off the real tension. The eventual rioting and fires pretty much froze Southeast Asia's second biggest bustling metropolitan area.
I bought a bike. I loved it. With most people afraid to leave their homes or unable to cross from one side of the city to the other, the streets were lighter in traffic. I whizzed about my part of town easily. Sukhumvit was a hairy ride no matter the circumstance. But the sois and backsois are quiet, allowing for a easy cruise. Drivers tend to slow down on the smaller streets so I had more room to maneuver and react. Checkpoints gave me quizzical looks but never stopped me. Who else but a farang would be breezing by in an expensive mountain bike at these tense times? I should have gotten a bike earlier.
Did I ever mention what a gorgeous skyline view I have from my apartment? Due to my proximity to the convention center and park, I have an unobstructed, albeit distant, view of the city skyline. As a result, once the tire-burning started, I was able to see the smoke come up. Literally, I was watching the city go up in flames. I was able to tell really quickly where the last spurt of anger was.
Anger management issues. What's how a friend described the protester reactions following the shooting of Seh Daeng. As time passed, it became less and less clear what the protesters' end goal was. In a way, I suspect they don't know themselves. The prime minister offered a reconciliation plan, a truce, that pretty much gave them everything they wanted except for the timing. Instead of immediately, it would be in September. They couldn't agree to the truce. Then as the burning and the shooting and eventually the fires started up, it seemed like the protest moment, even before the army rolled it, was falling apart. Some protesters claimed they were peaceful. Others were acting out against even their own, not allowing their injured a safe passage to medical treatment.
I blissfully missed the rioting. Most of us were under lockdown in our homes and hotels. Some people called it a staycation to keep the spirits up. Boredom was a frequent companion though. Parts of our neighborhood lost power, although, luckily for only several hours. The fires set in Central World is particularly upsetting to the local community, though. To set a fire that damaging and that big, they must have gone inside. On top of that, thousands of livelihoods and jobs were lost in those flames. Its loss made the residents really understand how key it was to the local economy. More than anything, the symbolic loss of what Bangkok is known for- retail mecca and modernity- was a huge blow to the core.
Perhaps in the Thais' best show of grace and determination, when we expats frequently complain about lack of efficiency, the community showed up in great numbers for the clean-up. The locals are determined to bury the protests in the past and recover as quickly as they can. In some ways, it is admirable. The sense of community and selflessness is not as frequently displayed in normal Bangkok life. In some ways, it's denial. The protests highlighted issues with the intense class divide and to not address them simply defers another flare up.
Life is resuming normality in Bangkok although the grievances of the protesters are presenting themselves in the other provinces, especially in the north where they are a stronghold. In the city, though, traffic jams have resumed, shopping coming back in full force. Retail will report profits this month. With the exception of fire-scarred buildings, it was almost as if nothing ever happened in this city, let alone a three month protest.
It's great the things are back to normal. But it was a significant population showing itself in the protests. Numbers like that don't just disappear to the woodwork forever. If the House is any indication, Thailand needs to come to terms with their population's needs. Whether it happens now or later is anyone's guess.
My biggest problem was cabin fever. The Skytrain stopped operating as the protests started getting violent. Violent as in spurts of gunfire here and there, mostly as the military and police really tightened their surrounding of the protest area. The shooting, probably assassination really, of Seh Daeng, a renegade active duty army general turned protester was what set off the real tension. The eventual rioting and fires pretty much froze Southeast Asia's second biggest bustling metropolitan area.
I bought a bike. I loved it. With most people afraid to leave their homes or unable to cross from one side of the city to the other, the streets were lighter in traffic. I whizzed about my part of town easily. Sukhumvit was a hairy ride no matter the circumstance. But the sois and backsois are quiet, allowing for a easy cruise. Drivers tend to slow down on the smaller streets so I had more room to maneuver and react. Checkpoints gave me quizzical looks but never stopped me. Who else but a farang would be breezing by in an expensive mountain bike at these tense times? I should have gotten a bike earlier.
Did I ever mention what a gorgeous skyline view I have from my apartment? Due to my proximity to the convention center and park, I have an unobstructed, albeit distant, view of the city skyline. As a result, once the tire-burning started, I was able to see the smoke come up. Literally, I was watching the city go up in flames. I was able to tell really quickly where the last spurt of anger was.
Anger management issues. What's how a friend described the protester reactions following the shooting of Seh Daeng. As time passed, it became less and less clear what the protesters' end goal was. In a way, I suspect they don't know themselves. The prime minister offered a reconciliation plan, a truce, that pretty much gave them everything they wanted except for the timing. Instead of immediately, it would be in September. They couldn't agree to the truce. Then as the burning and the shooting and eventually the fires started up, it seemed like the protest moment, even before the army rolled it, was falling apart. Some protesters claimed they were peaceful. Others were acting out against even their own, not allowing their injured a safe passage to medical treatment.
I blissfully missed the rioting. Most of us were under lockdown in our homes and hotels. Some people called it a staycation to keep the spirits up. Boredom was a frequent companion though. Parts of our neighborhood lost power, although, luckily for only several hours. The fires set in Central World is particularly upsetting to the local community, though. To set a fire that damaging and that big, they must have gone inside. On top of that, thousands of livelihoods and jobs were lost in those flames. Its loss made the residents really understand how key it was to the local economy. More than anything, the symbolic loss of what Bangkok is known for- retail mecca and modernity- was a huge blow to the core.
Perhaps in the Thais' best show of grace and determination, when we expats frequently complain about lack of efficiency, the community showed up in great numbers for the clean-up. The locals are determined to bury the protests in the past and recover as quickly as they can. In some ways, it is admirable. The sense of community and selflessness is not as frequently displayed in normal Bangkok life. In some ways, it's denial. The protests highlighted issues with the intense class divide and to not address them simply defers another flare up.
Life is resuming normality in Bangkok although the grievances of the protesters are presenting themselves in the other provinces, especially in the north where they are a stronghold. In the city, though, traffic jams have resumed, shopping coming back in full force. Retail will report profits this month. With the exception of fire-scarred buildings, it was almost as if nothing ever happened in this city, let alone a three month protest.
It's great the things are back to normal. But it was a significant population showing itself in the protests. Numbers like that don't just disappear to the woodwork forever. If the House is any indication, Thailand needs to come to terms with their population's needs. Whether it happens now or later is anyone's guess.
22 April 2010
Update: Language learning
News Update: Folks, I am safe. Those of you with mutual friends, we are all safe. It is indeed getting tense and scary at times and the action feels like it is often too close for comfort but we are all safe and sound and very alert of what's going on around us. (2300 hrs, 22 April 2010 local time)
I am happy to report I made great progress in my Thai. In addition to having mastered "Taxi Thai" I now can say:
- Red Shirts,
- pink,
- black,
- yellow,
- protest,
- Suvarnabhumi airport,
- Ratchaparasong intersection,
- closed
flawlessly, to the point of almost perfecting the tonal nuances enough for people to think I'm Thai.
In all seriousnes, I do not make light of the events going on in Bangkok. There's little I can say that you won't already read in the news. Like many Bangkok residents, I, we, are attempting to maintain some semblance of routine life, only in areas away from the protest and conflict activities. It's easy to get sucked into the sense of frustration but I find maintaining a sense of humor, a healthy Thai dosage of mai pen rai, and resisting the urge to judge is crucial to remain calm and objective as a non-participant. As I am no professional reporter or international affairs analyst, there's little I can contribute on this blog about the events surrounding me. I offer instead to continue catching up sharing observations, experiences from my time in this region.
I am happy to report I made great progress in my Thai. In addition to having mastered "Taxi Thai" I now can say:
- Red Shirts,
- pink,
- black,
- yellow,
- protest,
- Suvarnabhumi airport,
- Ratchaparasong intersection,
- closed
flawlessly, to the point of almost perfecting the tonal nuances enough for people to think I'm Thai.
In all seriousnes, I do not make light of the events going on in Bangkok. There's little I can say that you won't already read in the news. Like many Bangkok residents, I, we, are attempting to maintain some semblance of routine life, only in areas away from the protest and conflict activities. It's easy to get sucked into the sense of frustration but I find maintaining a sense of humor, a healthy Thai dosage of mai pen rai, and resisting the urge to judge is crucial to remain calm and objective as a non-participant. As I am no professional reporter or international affairs analyst, there's little I can contribute on this blog about the events surrounding me. I offer instead to continue catching up sharing observations, experiences from my time in this region.
19 April 2010
To build a village
..within a city is apparently easy as long as you have the numbers. The red shirts are digging in, stubbornly.
I was greeted upon my commute by the sight of an entire red village built up on the streets of Bangkok. Some sights to share:
Food giveaway line:
The kitchen behind it:
Interestingly, monks are set up behind it.
Makeshift shower stalls:
Paraphernalia store:
Tent city residences:
Restaurants for those willing to pay despite the availability of free food:
As much as I want to say "I told you so" because I had been the contrarian of my group, convinced that the protesters would not disperse during the Songkran holiday, but build up instead. I predicted they would remain and grow over last week while many suspected the government would attempt to clean house by the holiday. Both predictions turned out to be partially correct.
Instead of earning bragging rights for my astute gauge of the Thai mentality, I now have a growing sense of foreboding that comes with the realisation that my next prediction is this stand-off will not end well for anyone as the red shirts dig themselves more and more into this.
I was greeted upon my commute by the sight of an entire red village built up on the streets of Bangkok. Some sights to share:
Food giveaway line:
The kitchen behind it:
Interestingly, monks are set up behind it.Makeshift shower stalls:
Paraphernalia store:
Tent city residences:
Restaurants for those willing to pay despite the availability of free food:
As much as I want to say "I told you so" because I had been the contrarian of my group, convinced that the protesters would not disperse during the Songkran holiday, but build up instead. I predicted they would remain and grow over last week while many suspected the government would attempt to clean house by the holiday. Both predictions turned out to be partially correct.
Instead of earning bragging rights for my astute gauge of the Thai mentality, I now have a growing sense of foreboding that comes with the realisation that my next prediction is this stand-off will not end well for anyone as the red shirts dig themselves more and more into this.
13 April 2010
Snapshot in time
Seriously, I've been silent during the protests not because I have nothing to say. Au contraire, a couple of us normally apolitical folks are analyzing our surroundings by the hour. I as it happens have been on the road a lot, as usual, but for personal travel, missing every exciting weekend since the protests started. I don't feel I've missed much. I get enough of an idea in my weekdays. Including an afternoon off when the office was worried that the protesters were going to advance towards us, effectively blocking off traffic.
Instead, I offer an earlier snapshot I took before the mess got bloody. They've created their own little society in the corner, selling food, red shirts for potential converts, souvenirs, heart-shaped clappers (valentine overstock that just happened to be the right colour?), you name it.
The gathering was entirely peaceful. Mule-headed but peaceful. I don't condone the fact that they are likely behind some bomb and grenade attacks and definitely the blood dumping, but it wasn't the type of behaviour I saw in their sit-down protest. Their biggest overwhelming factor was number, not arms. Which, to me, renders the speculation of a third party instigating the shooting this weekend (yellow-shirters, perhaps?) entirely plausible.
Instead, I offer an earlier snapshot I took before the mess got bloody. They've created their own little society in the corner, selling food, red shirts for potential converts, souvenirs, heart-shaped clappers (valentine overstock that just happened to be the right colour?), you name it.
The gathering was entirely peaceful. Mule-headed but peaceful. I don't condone the fact that they are likely behind some bomb and grenade attacks and definitely the blood dumping, but it wasn't the type of behaviour I saw in their sit-down protest. Their biggest overwhelming factor was number, not arms. Which, to me, renders the speculation of a third party instigating the shooting this weekend (yellow-shirters, perhaps?) entirely plausible.
08 May 2009
Thai politics
A recent chat with a friend who visits Bangkok often:
Friend: How's it going in Bangkok, with all the protests.
Me: Quieted down. The day I got back, they lifted the state of emergency.
Friend: They really know how to screw themselves.
Me: It's almost like they are inclined to do it.
Friend: Take over the government building...
Me: loose some money.
Friend: Take over the airport during peak season...
Me: loose lots of money.
Friend: Take over the ASEAN summit...
Me: loose lots of money.
Friend: Take over Songkran...
Me: loose lots of money.
Friend: lol
...
On a similar vein, there was a mob in Patpong- a huge red light, shopping, and nightlife area- a couple days ago of vendors attacking police officers who had come through in a piracy raid to confiscate pirated goods.
As the economy continues to spiral downward, we may be seeing more of this type of aggression. I'm already seeing the vendors less inclined to bring down prices because the sale may be their only sale.
Friend: How's it going in Bangkok, with all the protests.
Me: Quieted down. The day I got back, they lifted the state of emergency.
Friend: They really know how to screw themselves.
Me: It's almost like they are inclined to do it.
Friend: Take over the government building...
Me: loose some money.
Friend: Take over the airport during peak season...
Me: loose lots of money.
Friend: Take over the ASEAN summit...
Me: loose lots of money.
Friend: Take over Songkran...
Me: loose lots of money.
Friend: lol
...
On a similar vein, there was a mob in Patpong- a huge red light, shopping, and nightlife area- a couple days ago of vendors attacking police officers who had come through in a piracy raid to confiscate pirated goods.
As the economy continues to spiral downward, we may be seeing more of this type of aggression. I'm already seeing the vendors less inclined to bring down prices because the sale may be their only sale.
30 November 2008
Busy sign on my shop door
Dear Reader,
I feel I ought to excuse myself for my sporadic posting. I certainly am not lacking in topics to cover. But I'm finding it frivolous to talk about small things when we are in the midst of a contentious political crossroads.
The PAD occupation of the airports have been occupying my job and my state of mind a lot lately. There is something disconcerting about being trapped in the city of a foreign country, even if one does reside there. Ultimately, this is not my country and I can't help feeling a little trapped.
As a result, I have temporarily lost my sense of mild humour in observing cultural differences. The massive cultural differences are being highlighted in the current events, but with my current state of mind, a lot of it simply is not funny anymore.
I could blog constantly about the protests and what little news is associated with it. But I know many of you tune out on repetitious topics. More so if you can sense a constant irritable attitude.
So, please bear with me while I collect my thoughts, find my zen. I'll be back in full swing as soon as I find my better self.
I feel I ought to excuse myself for my sporadic posting. I certainly am not lacking in topics to cover. But I'm finding it frivolous to talk about small things when we are in the midst of a contentious political crossroads.
The PAD occupation of the airports have been occupying my job and my state of mind a lot lately. There is something disconcerting about being trapped in the city of a foreign country, even if one does reside there. Ultimately, this is not my country and I can't help feeling a little trapped.
As a result, I have temporarily lost my sense of mild humour in observing cultural differences. The massive cultural differences are being highlighted in the current events, but with my current state of mind, a lot of it simply is not funny anymore.
I could blog constantly about the protests and what little news is associated with it. But I know many of you tune out on repetitious topics. More so if you can sense a constant irritable attitude.
So, please bear with me while I collect my thoughts, find my zen. I'll be back in full swing as soon as I find my better self.
26 November 2008
Work ethic or what?
What I don't understand is the lack of a sense of follow through here.
When the PAD protesters stormed the airport, the Thai Airways employees ditched the airport altogether. No contingency to get all the passengers placed in hotels. No system in place to make announcements. They put up "closed" signs on the check in counters that read "CLOSED. Contact _________" with the blank left, well, blank.
No one is picking up any of the customer service phone lines.
The airline webpage until this evening said nothing about the disruption in service. The current message now explains what had happened up to now, but not how to anticipate when to get back to the airport.
What cracks me up, though, was the initial announcement on Suvarnbhumi webpage: "Airport operations is closed due to leave." So that the reason the airport wasn't functioning was because people chose not to go to work, not because the protesters were there. They changed the page just tonight, now citing "for security reasons."
Sadly, now everyone else gets to experience what I had too much off: the Thai people's inability to respond to urgency.
When the PAD protesters stormed the airport, the Thai Airways employees ditched the airport altogether. No contingency to get all the passengers placed in hotels. No system in place to make announcements. They put up "closed" signs on the check in counters that read "CLOSED. Contact _________" with the blank left, well, blank.
No one is picking up any of the customer service phone lines.
The airline webpage until this evening said nothing about the disruption in service. The current message now explains what had happened up to now, but not how to anticipate when to get back to the airport.
What cracks me up, though, was the initial announcement on Suvarnbhumi webpage: "Airport operations is closed due to leave." So that the reason the airport wasn't functioning was because people chose not to go to work, not because the protesters were there. They changed the page just tonight, now citing "for security reasons."
Sadly, now everyone else gets to experience what I had too much off: the Thai people's inability to respond to urgency.
25 November 2008
TRAPPED!
For the first time in its six month history, PAD protesters stormed Bangkok's International Airport.
To emphasize how monumental that is, many have assumed that the Suvarnabhumi Airport was some sort of sacred neutral ground. While protesters have sat on roadways leading into the airport in September, they have not disrupted the international travel. When I announced the news to a couple of coworkers, including one who has been living in Thailand for almost a decade, he dismissed me, saying I am confusing it with Don Muang, the old international and now lesser used airport in Bangkok.
No air travel through Bangkok is operating. There has been no mention of transfering any minimum business to Don Muang.
My next thought is how long until the expat community, and ultimately the international community, decide they won't tolerate this anymore?
10... 9... 8... 7... countdown until parents call in a frenzy demanding I be safe.
To emphasize how monumental that is, many have assumed that the Suvarnabhumi Airport was some sort of sacred neutral ground. While protesters have sat on roadways leading into the airport in September, they have not disrupted the international travel. When I announced the news to a couple of coworkers, including one who has been living in Thailand for almost a decade, he dismissed me, saying I am confusing it with Don Muang, the old international and now lesser used airport in Bangkok.
No air travel through Bangkok is operating. There has been no mention of transfering any minimum business to Don Muang.
My next thought is how long until the expat community, and ultimately the international community, decide they won't tolerate this anymore?
10... 9... 8... 7... countdown until parents call in a frenzy demanding I be safe.
07 October 2008
PAD, Part whatever-the-heck-iteration-we're-on-now
No, I'm not affected directly. It's almost like saying same-same. In fact, I was so busy at work, I didn't even know about this until I looked in on the evening news.
I know your next questions.
I don't understand what's going on. It's not a matter of whether I agree or not. I just don't get it.
Ironically, the same time a surge of violent erupted with the PAD protests, over the weekend, the Bangkok locals conducted a very peaceful gubernatorial election, re-electing the incumbent. More on that in following post.
I know your next questions.
I don't understand what's going on. It's not a matter of whether I agree or not. I just don't get it.
Ironically, the same time a surge of violent erupted with the PAD protests, over the weekend, the Bangkok locals conducted a very peaceful gubernatorial election, re-electing the incumbent. More on that in following post.
02 September 2008
They've done it
Bangkok is now under state of emergency.
I haven't left the apartment so I have yet to learn exactly what that means.
I haven't left the apartment so I have yet to learn exactly what that means.
01 September 2008
PAD- Take Two
A couple of friends had planned a beach getaway this long weekend to Phuket, leaving Friday night, returning Monday evening. Only they never made it out. They went to the airport on Friday and was told their flight was canceled and to please go back to the airport for the early Saturday morning flight.
Reason: Runways were blocked in Phuket.
They went to the airport at the crack of dawn, waited, and waited. Was told to check back at 7am. 7:30am. 7:45am. 8:00am. 8:30am. Until finally, they got the bare basics from the airline official: they won't get an update from Phuket airport until 6pm.
Another major difference here in Thailand: the girls were issued full refunds from both airline and hotel. Tell me American or United Airlines would do that.
International flights do not seem to be impacted. Yet. Although, my personal prediction tells me that the more damage the protests do to the tourist industry, the more likely there will be some intervention coming in given how crucial tourism is to the local economy.
Reason: Runways were blocked in Phuket.
They went to the airport at the crack of dawn, waited, and waited. Was told to check back at 7am. 7:30am. 7:45am. 8:00am. 8:30am. Until finally, they got the bare basics from the airline official: they won't get an update from Phuket airport until 6pm.
Another major difference here in Thailand: the girls were issued full refunds from both airline and hotel. Tell me American or United Airlines would do that.
International flights do not seem to be impacted. Yet. Although, my personal prediction tells me that the more damage the protests do to the tourist industry, the more likely there will be some intervention coming in given how crucial tourism is to the local economy.
26 August 2008
PAD protests- ground truth
I got several people asking about the big protests taking place in Bangkok.
Yes, they are taking place.
And one realises just how big the city is when the protests are so big they are all over the news not just here but also worldwide, yet, one never personally encountered any of the gatherings. (correction on the "worldwide"... everywhere except for the States, who cover only the Convention at the moment. It's just as well. Keeps my father from breaking into a heart attack as he seems to assume I'm always in the middle of any such major news just because it's reported to happen in the same region.)
So, yes, I am safe. No, I haven't been directly affected. No, I haven't even seen it.
In reality, the PAD protests have been taking place all summer long, even before I arrived. One of them is focused heavily on a major bridge to disrupt traffic. Most of them are targeted at government institutions. One major one was targeted at the British Embassy last week when the ex-PM fled to London, seeking asylum. The closets to work and that I had actually seen the remnants of are at the police headquarters about a month ago, while I was passing overhead on the Skytrain.
Today has been the major ones in terms of signs of violence. One of the Thai employees in our compound expressed concern about his mother's home and its proximity to all the action, so some invisible dam of control break and all hell breaks loose.
Other than that, we farangs living in the newer part of town, away from the old city centre, are benefiting for slightly less road traffic, living our separate isolated lives in oblivion.
So, yes, we are safe, for now.
Yes, they are taking place.
And one realises just how big the city is when the protests are so big they are all over the news not just here but also worldwide, yet, one never personally encountered any of the gatherings. (correction on the "worldwide"... everywhere except for the States, who cover only the Convention at the moment. It's just as well. Keeps my father from breaking into a heart attack as he seems to assume I'm always in the middle of any such major news just because it's reported to happen in the same region.)
So, yes, I am safe. No, I haven't been directly affected. No, I haven't even seen it.
In reality, the PAD protests have been taking place all summer long, even before I arrived. One of them is focused heavily on a major bridge to disrupt traffic. Most of them are targeted at government institutions. One major one was targeted at the British Embassy last week when the ex-PM fled to London, seeking asylum. The closets to work and that I had actually seen the remnants of are at the police headquarters about a month ago, while I was passing overhead on the Skytrain.
Today has been the major ones in terms of signs of violence. One of the Thai employees in our compound expressed concern about his mother's home and its proximity to all the action, so some invisible dam of control break and all hell breaks loose.
Other than that, we farangs living in the newer part of town, away from the old city centre, are benefiting for slightly less road traffic, living our separate isolated lives in oblivion.
So, yes, we are safe, for now.
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